KICHLER LIGHTING Custom Lighting Selection and Installation Guide 2011 : Page 44

Installation Tips Each product is packaged with full installation instructions. This section is not intended to replace or supplant those instructions. This should simply provide supporting information to make a purchasing decision easier. Tips are divided among the different types of lighting systems covered in this manual. Modular Systems A Typical LED Modular and Disc Installation Employing a Remote Power Supply In this installation the remote power supply is located in the back of the lower cabinet. Power supply cables from both sides of the sink travel through the wall to the lower area and into the power supply box. The power supply box is controlled by a typical 120V wall switch. On the left side, note the closeness with which the power supply cable has been installed to the underside edge of the cabinet. This will be less visible. Also, remember, if this is a new installation, the path of the power cord wire can be plotted prior to the installation of the drywall if a “fish line” or false wire is positioned in the wall. Pulling the power cord will be easier. The power cord can, of course be installed, but passing the plug end through the rear panel of the cabinet might be problematic when the cabinets are installed. 44

Installation Tips

Each product is packaged with full installation instructions. This section is not intended to replace or supplant those instructions. This should simply provide supporting information to make a purchasing decision easier.<br /> <br /> Tips are divided among the different types of lighting systems covered in this manual.<br /> <br /> Modular Systems <br /> <br /> A Typical LED Modular and Disc Installation Employing a Remote Power Supply In this installation the remote power supply is located in the back of the lower cabinet. Power supply cables from both sides of the sink travel through the wall to the lower area and into the power supply box. The power supply box is controlled by a typical 120V wall switch. On the left side, note the closeness with which the power supply cable has been installed to the underside edge of the cabinet. This will be less visible. Also, remember, if this is a new installation, the path of the power cord wire can be plotted prior to the installation of the drywall if a “fish line” or false wire is positioned in the wall. Pulling the power cord will be easier. The power cord can, of course be installed, but passing the plug end through the rear panel of the cabinet might be problematic when the cabinets are installed.<br /> <br /> LED Disc Systems <br /> <br /> The biggest challenge with some LED discs installation is hiding the wire. Following are a few tips for a more aesthetically pleasurable installation.<br /> <br /> The Design Pro LED Disc is very small, but placing the wire out of sight can be a challenge. For inside cabinet installations, where it is very likely that the wires will be visible, drill the wire passage hole BEHIND the disc. Once the disc is installed, it will be almost impossible to see the wire exiting the mounting surface behind the disc.<br /> <br /> The top of cabinets or the top of shelving generally cannot be seen. These areas are perfect for making wire connections. Pass the wire through a hole in the top of the mounting surface and any required cable, power supply or connection can be made above and out of sight.<br /> <br /> Use this concept in undercabinet installations as well, but remember the wire will end up on the bottom of the lower cabinet shelf. A false bottom may be needed to protect the wire from abrasion as the shelf is used. Do not use this method if the wire exposed to this wear. Dishware, glassware, canned goods or boxed goods, typically stored in a cabinet should not be allowed to rub against the electric wire. Wire should be protected.<br /> <br /> Interconnect Cable Notch <br /> <br /> When connecting a modular light fixture from one undercabinet area to the next, it is likely that the cabinet dividers will need to be notched to accommodate the interconnect cable. There are a few different methods to notch the cabinet divider.<br /> <br /> Create a simple tunnel in the wood divider. The cable diameter on the LED systems is 1/4” in diameter. The tunnel can be created by simply drilling a 5/16” hole very close to the edge of the wood and chiseling out the remains.<br /> <br /> A more complex method of creating the pass hole involves a second step after the first suggestion. The 5/16” diameter hole is drilled 1/16” higher. After drilling the hole is chiseled out into a tunnel shape, then a router is used to create a flat area counter-bored below. This flat area will accommodate a shim that covers the wire hole and makes for a more finished look, when viewed from below.<br /> <br /> A third idea involves the notching out of a section of the cabinet divider. Once removed, a pass hole is cut out of the top section of the removed piece and the removed piece is positioned back with the interconnect cable pushed against the upper side of the cabinet and fully out of sight. This notch will create the cleanest look, but it is the most involved and should only be done by an accomplished cabinet maker.<br /> <br /> This method also works well when passing interconnect cables through the wall. In these cases, the plug head must remain, so the pass hole must be large enough to allow the plug to move through the wall. By removing and replacing a section of the wood, the large hole patch can be covered and the installation looks clean and professional.<br /> <br /> Frequently Asked Questions <br /> <br /> Radio Interference <br /> <br /> Q ¡V Is it possible that radio waves will cause interference with under-cabinet lights?<br /> <br /> A ¡V It is possible and is rarely reported.<br /> <br /> Q ¡V I am experiencing radio interference with the cabinet lighting that includes a transformer (LED, 12V Xenon or Fluorescent.) What can be done?<br /> <br /> A - The magnetic fields created by transformers sometimes interfere with the magnetic fields used to drive radio waves. Unfortunately, there are thousands of combinations of wavelengths and trying to determine which two will interfere is next to impossible. Here are a few things that can be done: <br /> <br /> The most serious interference is caused with AM radio signals. Switch to FM, if possible.<br /> <br /> Radio and Transformer on the same circuit will also heighten the possibility. If possible, move one.<br /> <br /> Physical proximity will cause a higher likelihood of inference. Move the radio farther away or reposition the radio, if possible.<br /> <br /> Are you certain it is the lighting? Many items in the kitchen have transformers. Even the phone charger emits magnetic waves. It might be something else or a combination of both.<br /> <br /> Try a filter. A number of commercially available filters are designed to reduce the affects of radio wave interference.<br /> <br /> 12V Xenon Bright Disc Power <br /> <br /> Q ¡V The higher wattage 12V Xenon Bright Disc Power Supplies are actually combinations of 60W transformers. Can I wire the individual 60W units together to achieve a higher single transformer power?<br /> <br /> A ¡V No. Both of the transformers are marked and instruction sheet state "Do not interconnect output terminations." These are class 2 transformers and run at the limiting class 2 current of 5 Amps. If these are interconnected...<br /> <br /> 1. Voids Class 2 rating<br /> <br /> 2. Voids UL listing<br /> <br /> 3. Voids Kichler Puck warranty - must be used with Kichler Class 2 power supply.<br /> <br /> 4. Likely to either fry a transformer because of the internal feedback or fry the light fixtures.<br /> <br /> UL has established a 5A maximum on a Class 2 system. The UL listing we have for the fixtures ties them to a Class 2 power supply and therefore the 5A max. for the fixtures.<br /> <br /> Q ¡V How do others offer Puck lighting that can be powered by more than a 60 watt maximum power supply?<br /> <br /> A ¡V There are a number of reasons.<br /> <br /> They may not be offering a Class 2 system „h If they are running a 24V system, then each circuit could be 120 watts „h The units may not be covered by a UL listing It may be necessary to consult the other vendors.<br /> <br /> Kichler Design Pro LED Remote Power <br /> <br /> Q ¡V Why should a contractor use remote transformer layout in designing an under-cabinet installation?<br /> <br /> A ¡V Remote transformers provide the cleanest, best looking installation to match the virtually invisible slenderness of our lighting fixtures. This visual aid can also be used by contractors to help their customer understand that remote power is not a complex task, just different. See the ¡§Modular Systems¡¨ sketch in the ¡§Installation Tips¡¨ section of this manual for an easy to visualize explanation of remote wiring.<br /> <br /> Q ¡V Where and how are the Remote Power Supplies 12380BK (100w) and 12382BK (200w) installed?<br /> <br /> A ¡V The remote power supplies are engineered to be direct wire and wall mounted only. They can be located in basements, attics, or any well ventilated area that is convenient.<br /> <br /> Additional facts: <br /> <br /> Input power is 120volt AC (alternating current) 50/60 Hz, output is 24volts DC (direct current). Terminal connection blocks are located inside housing for easy wiring connection.<br /> <br /> You can connect up to two of the Power Supply leads (that bring power to the lighting fixtures) in each terminal block on the secondary side.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> The 12382BK (200w) Power Supply contains two individual 100w power supplies inside housing. These operate independently and cannot be combined as one circuit. Both are UL listed Class II*.<br /> <br /> Dimensions are:<br /> <br /> 12380BK 11¡¨H x 61/2¡¨ W x 3¡¨D<br /> <br /> 12382BK 151/2¡¨H x 11¡¨W x 3¡¨D Q ¡V How are Power Supply Leads 12344BK, WH & 12346BK, WH connected?<br /> <br /> A ¡V The Power Supply Leads are available in two lengths to accommodate most installations. The cable is UL listed, is Class II* and suitable to be run behind walls (Please check local codes for compliance). Cable should only be used to connect to Power Supplies. The cable contains a male connector on one end and a female connector on the other end.<br /> <br /> When installing your system it is best to decide which end will be connected to the first fixture or power switch. Fixtures have a male connector on one end and a female connector on the other end. Once this has been decided, the other end of the connector is cut off. This allows for both a smaller opening in the wall and for hard wiring the connector to the power supply. The plug end can not be connected to the power supply.<br /> <br /> Installation know-how: <br /> <br /> This will also allow you to cut the cable shorter if the full length is not needed and run through the wall much easier. (Cable is approximately .¡¨ diameter vs. plug¡Vend at 1¡¨dia.). <br /> <br /> Helpful hint: „h Two Power Supply Leads can be connected if needed for extra long distance.<br /> <br /> Q ¡V Can I use any interconnect cable 12341,12342,12343,12345 to connect to the Power Supplies?<br /> <br /> A ¡V No. You cannot substitute any of the interconnect cables for the main power lead. These are specifically designed to a connection cable between under cabinet fixtures only.<br /> <br /> These are a three (3) conductor wire cable (2 wires are for Positive and Negative 24 DC). The 3rd wire is a signal wire to control the light intensity when used with a Dimmer Switch 12355 or 12357BK, WH.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> Interconnect cables are available in 4 lengths and available in black and white.<br /> <br /> 12341 is 9¡¨ in length<br /> <br /> 12342 is 14¡¨ in length<br /> <br /> 12343 is 21¡¨ in length<br /> <br /> 12345 is 10¡¦ (ft.) In length <br /> <br /> Q - What does a Class 2 listing on a circuit mean?<br /> <br /> A: An isolated secondary circuit involving not more than 42.2 volts (peak) with specific current limitations regarding wire size, de-rating factors, and over current protection. The voltage is limited to render the circuit safe from electrical shock, and the current is limited to render the circuit safe from fire.<br /> <br /> The Class 2 circuit is the industry benchmark for electrical appliance safety.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> Kichler Design Pro LED under-cabinet lighting is listed as a Class 2 system and cannot be used with any other product or system in the market today. It is an exclusive Kichler design.<br /> <br /> Q - Under which UL standard is the Kichler Design Pro LED listed?<br /> <br /> A - UL 2108 Plug-in Power Q ¡V What is the length of the plug-in Power Supplies?<br /> <br /> A - Plug-in Power Supply 12383BK, WH is 48¡¨ in length.<br /> <br /> Installation know-how: <br /> <br /> The 12383BK, WH will accommodate up to 30 watts. A male connector is molded to the end of the cable.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> A female to female accessory connector (12348BK, WH) is included in the carton when connecting two male ends is necessary.<br /> <br /> Plug-in Power supplies are UL Listed Class II.* <br /> <br /> Kichler Design Pro System Design <br /> <br /> Q - Why and when would I use connectors 12348BK, WH or 12349 BK, WH?<br /> <br /> A - The 12348 and 12349 were designed to make a connection between two male ends or two female ends. In the event the wrong end was cut-off the Power Supply Lead 12344BK, WH, instead of purchasing a new lead you can supply the end user with a connector (12348/ 12349) to make the connection.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> These will also allow you to connect any two interconnects on the male to male or female to female ends.<br /> <br /> Q - What is the purpose of the 4 Position Dimmer Switch 12355 BK, WH and is it required to the system?<br /> <br /> A - The power switch 12355BK, WH was engineered to be a four position switch, including (1) Off, (2) Low, (3) Medium and (4) High. These settings are changed by gently tapping the switch to adjust the intensity of light. (This is why the 3rd wire on the interconnect cable is important).<br /> <br /> Installation know-how: <br /> <br /> The Power Switch 12355 BK, WH is not required, but it is a convenient feature to include. You can just operate on the primary side by using a standard on/off switch that is wired in before the Power Supply 12380 or 12382.<br /> <br /> NOTE: By doing this you will only have one intensity of lighting; High.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> Also note that if you have a standard on/off switch before the Power Supply and are using the 12355BK, WH as well you can set the desired intensity using the 12355 and then turn the system on or off using the standard switch. The 12350 has a built in memory that will leave the setting as it was originally set.<br /> <br /> Installation know-how: <br /> <br /> The 12356 BK, WH night light module can only be used with power switch 12355.<br /> <br /> Q - Once I have all the Kichler LED fixtures linked together can I choose to turn one fixture off in the middle of a run?<br /> <br /> A - Once all the fixtures are connected they will operate as one system. You cannot control one fixture independent of others on that same run.<br /> <br /> Q - What combination or sizes should be used in a layout design?<br /> <br /> A - Design Pro Series LED light fixtures are available in four sizes: 6¡¨, 12¡¨, 18¡¨ and 30¡¨. We recommend filling the full length of a cabinet with light, to avoid shadows or dark spots where no light is placed. Any combination of sizes can be used. The fixtures can be linked together for extended flow of product for any project. Super slim Design Pro Series ultra thin .¡¨ profile allows for easy concealment and versatile installation. Design Pro Series under cabinet light fixtures can be used below, above cabinets or under any shelf. The only limiter is the maximum wattage size of the transformer. More detailed information on selecting size can be found in the ¡§Planning A Modular System¡¨ section of this manual.<br /> <br /> Q - How many 12347 3¡¦ LED Disc wire extensions can be connected together?<br /> <br /> A - We have tested 8 cords for a total of 24 feet and found no reduction in lumen output or voltage drop. If this extreme length of 24 feet is not enough the system layout should be revisited for improved efficiency.<br /> <br /> Installation know-how: <br /> <br /> It is sometimes cleaner/easier to drill a hole near the perimeter of the disc and put the wire through the top or backside of the cabinet.<br /> <br /> LED Dimming<br /> <br /> Q - Can I use a standard or electronic wall dimmer to operate a Kichler LED Lighting system?<br /> <br /> A - A standard wall dimmer will operate the Design Pro LED Direct Wire units. An electronic wall dimmer will work with these units, but is not required and will perform less effectively than the standard version.<br /> <br /> At this time, a standard wall dimmer will not operate the Design Pro LED Modular system. Investigation continues on a viable Z-Wave wall mounted switch option.<br /> <br /> LED Light <br /> <br /> Q - To what is the light output of the Kichler Design Pro best compared?<br /> <br /> A - The Design Pro Series was developed to produce light with the same color temperature as our Xenon under cabinet and linear product, which is approximately 3000 degrees Kelvin. The CRI is at, or greater than 85. Because Xenon light is somewhat ¡§yellow,¡¨ you will find that the LED is somewhat ¡§whiter.¡¨ The combination of a whiter light and high CRI will embolden most every color, especially purples, dark blues and deep reds.<br /> <br /> Q - Why does one LED chip look like a different color compared to the chip next to it?<br /> <br /> A - No two LED are exactly the same. Because we buy a range of chips there is variation from chip to chip. These variations are slight. The collective light output of the fixture is the best measure of color output.<br /> <br /> LED Chips are manufactured and sorted into ¡§bins¡¨ based on color temperature. The tighter the range of color requested, the more expensive the chip. Kichler purchases the tightest range of chips advertised. Our tolerance is ¡Ó150K (Kelvin). Chip tolerance ranges from 2850K to 3150K for Kichler products. High brightness LED chips used in Kichler Design Pro LED will make most every color ¡§pop¡¨ much better than a typical Xenon lamp. Xenon is a more yellow light. Yellow tends to gray or wash out purples or blues close to purple on the color spectrum. High brightness LED chips are cleaner, whiter and make colors ¡§jump¡¨. It feels cooler, but it is not cool blue, nor as warm yellow as Xenon.<br /> <br /> Competitor LED color range can be as large as 875K to 1000K and some do not mention a range. These are the least desirable to a customer ¡V they should steer clear as they have no idea what they will get. Color variation is also present in incandescent and fluorescent bulbs. Fresh from the package they look the same, but with use or as they ¡§burn¡¨ a dramatic color change occurs.<br /> <br /> Helpful hint: <br /> <br /> Focus should be placed on the lumen output on the counter, the collective color.<br /> <br /> In room interiors where there is extensive use of white, and anything but a pure white (approximately 2700 Kelvin) specification is required, Kichler¡¦s Xenon products may be a good alternative solution.<br /> <br /> Q - What can we do if one LED chip should happen to go out?<br /> <br /> A - If one should go out prematurely the entire fixture must be replaced. These cannot be serviced in the field. Please refer to the Kichler Warranty.<br /> <br /> Energy Star <br /> <br /> Q - Everyone has Energy Star listed light fixtures, don¡¦t they?<br /> <br /> A - Currently, Kichler was the first Energy Star solid state under-cabinet lighting listed and now is one of a VERY small group of Energy Star solid state cabinet lighting offered in America.

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